Hoodie Design 101: Tips for Choosing the Right Fabric, Fit, and Stitch

From lazy Sunday staples to go-to branded merchandise, the hoodie has officially earned its spot in everyone’s wardrobe. But if you’re thinking about designing your own, whether it’s for a brand, school event, company promotion, or retail line, there’s more to it than just slapping a logo on it.

The best hoodie design is comfy, stylish, and made to last. It all comes down to three key things: the fabric, the fit, and the imprint. In this guide, I’ll show you what to look for, what to steer clear of, and share some go-to picks based on real-world wear and tear.

Step 1: Choosing the Right Fabric for Your Hoodie Design

Let’s start with the foundation. If your fabric isn’t comfortable, no other part of the hoodie design matters. Fabric affects feel, weight, warmth, printability, and long-term wearability.

100% Cotton: Soft, Breathable, and Print-Friendly

Cotton is beloved for a reason. It's breathable, natural, and feels great against the skin. If you want a high-quality fabric that showcases screen printing beautifully, 100% ring-spun cotton is your best choice.

Pros:

• Super soft feel

• Great for high-detail prints

• Feels breathable and light

Cons:

• May shrink slightly in the wash

• Not ideal for moisture-wicking

Recommended use: Campus merchandise, boutique brands, or any situation where softness and visual quality matter.

Cotton-Polyester Blends: Balanced and Durable

For something a little more rugged, cotton/poly blends (typically 50/50 or 60/40) combine the softness of cotton with the strength of polyester. These blends are wrinkle-resistant, hold up better after repeated washes, and tend to shrink less.

Why we love them:

• Better color retention

• Less pilling than pure cotton

• Cost-effective and long-lasting

Great for: Large group orders, employee uniforms, conference giveaways, or high-volume resale.

Fleece and French Terry: Elevated Comfort

If you’re going for that premium, cozy vibe, especially for fall/winter releases or loungewear collections, opt for fleece-lined or French terry fabrics. These tend to be heavier in weight and offer that cloud-soft interior everyone loves in a hoodie design.

Midweight fleece is ideal for layering, while heavyweight fleece is ultra-warm and provides a structured feel.

Recommended for: Luxury streetwear brands, colder climates, and boutique fitness studios.

Step 2: Selecting the Perfect Fit

Fit is where fashion meets function. The right fit can elevate your hoodie design from “just okay” to “don’t ever take it off.” Your audience, intended use, and overall style goals should guide this decision.

Unisex Fit: The Gold Standard

The most common and safest choice, unisex hoodies are suitable for a wide range of body types. They’re relaxed without being sloppy, and ideal for large, mixed groups.

Best for: Fundraisers, school apparel, team uniforms, and general merch.

Oversized Fit: Streetwear’s Best Friend

Oversized and boxy silhouettes are a key part of today’s streetwear trends. These hoodies typically feature dropped shoulders, longer sleeves, and a roomier torso for a laid-back, slouchy look.

Hoodie Design tip: Oversized hoodies work best with minimalist designs—try tonal prints, embroidery, or puff ink for added texture. 

Slim Fit: Sleek and Modern

A slim fit is more contoured to the body and usually features shorter cuffs, slimmer sleeves, and a tighter waistband. It’s polished, less bulky, and often seen in fitness or luxury apparel.

Best for: Athleisure brands, gym uniforms, or fashion-forward collections.

Warning: Slim fits can be restrictive in the shoulders, so test samples if your target audience includes people with broad builds.

Step 3: Pay Attention to Stitching and Construction of Your Hoodie Design

Hoodie construction plays a huge role in how the piece holds up over time. Seams, stitching, and tags may not seem exciting, but they’re what separates “merch table” hoodies from retail-ready fashion.

Double-Needle Stitching – Strong and Clean

Double-needle stitching (a sewing method where two parallel rows of stitches are used) reinforces high-stress areas like shoulders, armholes, and hems. It keeps the hoodie intact even after frequent washing and heavy use.

Where to look for it:

• Shoulders

• Side seams

• Cuffs and waistband

Best for: Any hoodie you expect to wear and wash frequently, such as sports teams, workwear, or outerwear.

Coverstitching:  Smooth and Durable

Coverstitching is usually found around the hems and sleeves of a hoodie design. It’s a type of stitch that lies flat and flexes with the fabric, making it ideal for activewear or layered outfits.

Bonus: It just looks better—clean lines and less puckering

Tags and Finishing

If branding is a priority, look for blanks with tear-away tags or tagless labels. This lets you easily insert your own label or printed logo without discomfort or extra bulk.

Also consider:

• Metal grommets for hoodie strings (adds a polished detail)

• Ribbed cuffs and hem for better structure

• Side-seamed vs. tubular construction (side-seamed = better fit)

Design + Printing Tips

You’ve nailed the fabric, fit, and construction; now it’s time to think about how your hoodie will come to life.

• Keep it simple. Clean designs often resonate the most. Think logos, slogans, or bold color-blocking.

• Use puff or embroidery for texture. These techniques pop more on fleece and thicker fabrics.

• Avoid oversized prints on lightweight hoodies. They can make the fabric sag or crack.

• Choose ink based on fabric. Water-based inks work great on cotton.

Partner With Hatteras for Your Next Hoodie Design

A hoodie design isn’t just about its appearance; it’s also about how it feels and how it holds up over time. When you choose the right fabric, fit, and stitching, your hoodie becomes more than clothing—it becomes something people want to live in.

Whether you're suiting up your staff or building a brand, don't settle for average. Go for comfort, quality, and a style that tells your story.

Need a hand picking the right hoodie design for your project? At Hatteras, we’re here to help you source, design, and brand gear people will be excited to wear. Let’s make something great together. Contact us today to get started on your custom hoodie project!